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Archive for November, 2010

A veil of green

Last week, I looked at a house for rent on Cerrada de San Sebastían. The man showing the house had been born in it some 60+ years ago. He was one of 13. They had kept hens for fresh eggs during those times. Guanajuato was different then. There was nothing above the Panoramica except for hills and sky. His wife told me many happy memories had been made at the house. Her mother-in-law always held dinners and posadas, inviting pilgrims off the street for a meal. It had been a festive home.

When she showed me the front porch, she told me the tree trimmer would be coming the next morning. Her father-in-law had planted the tree decades ago to keep those passing by from staring at the sisters as they sat on the outside bench. Sometimes, all eight girls would sit watching the street action, hidden behind the tree. Fifty years later, the tree’s function of veiling the girls is no longer needed, and the owners thought the new tenants might want an unobstructed view of the street.

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Radio

I spent Friday in San Miguel, visiting Sharon at the first Charity Golf Tournament where her husband John did a tremendous amount of work. Afterwards, I headed over to F’s house and had a nice conversation with his mother.  She and Tia Juanita were watching their telenovela. This was the 4th incarnation of this particular telenovela. F’s mom told me about when she first heard the telenovela.  She was a girl of ten making tortillas for dinner.  Back then, it took two hours to make tortillas, and everyone would listen to this “novela” on the radio. She told me the radio transported everyone in those days, far away from hand-washing and cooking into the vibrant worlds they would create in their heads.

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Understanding & Home

Love allows understanding to dawn, and understanding is precious. Where you are understood, you are at home. Understanding nourishes belonging. When you really feel understood, you feel free to release yourself into the trust and shelter of the other person’s soul.
— John O’Donohue, Anam Cara: A Book of Celtic Wisdom

More John O’Donohue in one of his last interviews before his death in 2008 on The Inner Landscape of Beauty.

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Olmec Colossal Head

Olmec Colossal Head No. 1 discovered at the Olmec settlement of  Tres Zapotes in 1939. Photographed at the Museum of Anthropology in Xalapa, Veracruz, where F and I walked through the most important collection of pre-Columbian works including these wondrous heads.

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Streets of Naolinco

We spent F’s 40th birthday in Naolinco, a charming town in the State of Veracruz. As we walked the town, admiring the bright colors and festive decorations for La Independencia, we heard an old man tell another old man that the rain would be here soon. We looked for evidence of this, and found none, except the air smelled a bit like wet tires.

An hour later, we huddled under an awning as it rained sheets of angry water pellets from a big bellied sky that had been split open, without warning. Dropping like nails it came down and bounced off the ground, until a small river formed and began taking over the sidewalk. We noticed a few people had been caught in the rain like us, including a bunch of adolescents that ran up and down the street screaming with youth and circumstance, invigorated by the storm.

We waited and waited.  The rain didn’t let up. A few cars boated down the waterway. The water, the greyness, and sound orchestrated into a meditation. Waiting wasn’t so bad. Then came a truck, the kind with enormous wheels. It was moving fast and splaying water from both sides. F motioned for it to slow down. It did not. As the monster truck passed us, we were doused in a wave of water… all of our awning positioning had been a complete waste of time. Fernando chased after the truck, hitting it smartly on the back window with a 10 peso coin. Water refugees moved from their perch to see what would happen next.  Fortunately, the truck kept going.

Now that we were wet from the waist down, we were liberated from our awning sanctuary and made our way to the bus station in ankle high water and rain.  It wasn’t that bad.

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Paprika

Paprika and cumin: two popular color choices for home exteriors.

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Ali collage

Yesterday, 4 year old Ali asked if she could take some photos. I gave her my camera and she took photos of pretty dresses, pink sandals, and store displays. Her sister, Gabby, preferred street scenes and plants. Here’s Ali next to one of her photographs.

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Thanks!

Eric V. Ibarra did a lot more than Las Fotos Project when he was at Buen Pastor. He treated the madres to a pizza party and spent a lot of time with them.  He hosted a movie night for the girls. He took Madre Angelita to the doctor and spent hours with her there. He brainstrormed fundraising ideas with Katie. On Tere’s request, he took photos of all the girls in their uniforms for their school documentation. I’m sure I am missing a lot, but basically, he listened, looked around, saw what was needed, and then did it. He truly became part of the community while he was here and we look forward to his return.

Before he left, he gave me a few things, including these photos which I love and found a place for on my fridge.

  1. On the left: That’s Gabby and her sister Ali behind her on the monkey bars. Eric took this photo when he accompanied us on our Saturday walk to Julie’s hacienda.
  2. Top: I love this photo… it’s the warm reception I receive when I visit the girls at Buen Pastor.  A group hug from the girls can melt away any upset.
  3. Jocelyn took this photo on assignment during  Las Fotos Project and it’s fantastic! And it’s the only photo I have of Sara.

This is a post of gratitude. Thank you, Eric.

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Plaza Mexiamora

Plaza Mexiamora, where callejones Ánimas, Taza, Gallitos, Tambores, Cervatana, Calzada de Mexiamora and Hinojo connect which means there is always someone walking through.

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6 things


Alice to the White Queen:  One can’t believe impossible things!

White Queen to Alice:

I daresay you haven’t had much practice. When I was your age, I always did it for half-an-hour a day. Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.

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eStudio473 Katie

It’s been nearly a year since Katie Clancy started teaching art classes at Buen Pastor. When a friend introduced her to the work at Buen Pastor, Katie knew she had something to offer.  She started dreaming, and dreaming big. She began creating an art curriculum for girls and then sold her own photographs to use as start-up funds for the initial art class at Buen Pastor last January 2010.

Since that time she’s taught visual storytelling. She’s explored identity and relationships with the girls using self portraits & portraits. Now, she’s teaching the smaller ones surrealism and storytelling in her new space – one of the classrooms from the Buen Pastor school.

Katie wants the girls to know that anything is possible when delving into play. Surrealism removes limitations of reality, where one can form their own reality. Starting from here: anything is possible. Katie’s goal is to bring a network of diverse artists under the umbrella of storytelling, to help the girls create their own empowering tools of play and limitless possibilities.

You can follow Katie’s progress at her delightful and educational blog, eStudio473.

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School spaces

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The private school run by the madres closed down this Fall.  There weren’t enough funds to keep it going. Late afternoon, yesterday, I went over with F to visit the school and take some photos. The grounds didn’t feel abandoned. Maybe it was the warm lighting of the sun setting, or the buildings wrapped in shadows, that made this place seem less lonely… actually, as if it was just waiting for the next use of its spaces.

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Jump spot

I’ve always loved Sundays best, as it’s the day I spend with Fernando. But I’m beginning to appreciate Saturdays just as much, because that’s the day I hang out with Gabby and Ali. On Saturdays, we walk around town… the girls usual climb whatever is in front of them.  We stop in a plaza to recharge with ice cream.

Today, we walked all the way to Pipila, and then continued to MEGA where we had lunch at McDonald’s. I thought this would be a big treat for them, but they had never even heard of McDonald’s. Ali, sensing that McDonald’s was a special place (probably because I kept telling them we were going to a big surprise), carefully divided her fries in half and wrapped them up. She wanted to share the fries with her mom, because her mom had never been to McDonald’s either.

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Teen Angel

An angel poses for Monse as we walk the callejones towards the Mercado from Pipila.

INCOMING: Eric is showing each girl’s top photos this evening at Antik, located in Plaza Baratillo. If you’re in town, please stop by!

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GTO from on top

I rode the funicular cable car that takes you up to Pipila for the first time yesterday. Eric bought the girls tickets because we didn’t want to lose precious daylight.  We had a late start and wanted to photograph the area around Pipila and the Mercado. So, up we went!

Fatima and Fernando snapped photos all the way up.  Joceyln, Daneli, and Monse did too. Once we left the funicular, we arrived at a walkway with shops. Normally, vendors ask that folks don’t take photographs. But when all five girls charged in with their cameras, they didn’t say a thing.

Jocelyn found these sunglasses. They were hilarious. Here she is with Pipila in her eye.

And here’s a view of gorgeous Guanajuato from Pipila. I love studying the callejones and buildings from this viewpoint.

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Wandering lens

This week, I’ve been spending afternoons with Eric and five girls from Buen Pastor.  We’ve been walking around and looking at Guanajuato through a camera lens.  The girls are enjoying this project.  Eric and I are too. It’s been fantastic seeing their enthusiasm and their talent grow.

Here are some photos of the girls capturing images:

Jocelyn photographs Daneli on the payphone in Mexiamora Plaza.

Monse finds a number, while Daneli captures the fading light in a doorway. All five girls spent some time here trying to photograph a cat on the white steps of the door to the right.

Eric reviews Fatima’s shots.  Of all the girls, Fatima is the most unabashed at hunting down her images.  She’ll go up to anyone and start shooting, or chase a dog down the street to get a portrait.

Fernanda reviews her images here as well. She captured a great photograph as the sun set and the girls walked up the hill to Buen Pastor after yesterday’s class.

Jocelyn photographs a mother and her son in an alley.

I think I have so many photos of Jocelyn because I loved her beanie and bright colors.

To follow the girls’ progress, please visit Las Fotos Project Facebook.

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El Frio

Little tienda just before entering the town of Xico, Veracruz.

It’s been cold! F and I stocked up on gloves, fingerless gloves (for typing) and beanies to keep the head heat in. Butter stays hard on the counter and I don’t need to refrigerate a pot of chili before going to bed. Not good weather for Cerveza muuuy fria.

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Runaway

This doll reminds me Mexico’s creepy but intriguing Island of the Dolls.

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Monkey bars

Ali and Gabby playing on the monkey bars at Julie’s hacienda.

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Expendio


Bread, milk and eggs.

Halloween has it’s own flavor here in Mexico. It seems to spread out over the week, like Mother’s Day does. Last night, I saw a giant purple rabbit sitting outside the Basilica, casually talking to her friend. There was a masked skeleton standing in a doorway of a tienda, people-watching. A big guy walked around with heart sunglasses and glow-horns. After I left Julie and Eric to walk back home, a Pirates of the Caribbean Johnny Depp character on stilts swooped down and chased me a few steps down the street. I got my foot trapped in a plastic bag being blown by the wind, and stumbled as I fled Johnny Depp.

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