Archive for January, 2011

La Capilla de la Virgen del Patrocinio is located on top of the Bufa, in front of the statue of Pancho Villa (below) and statues of the other two victors of The Battle of Zacatecas: Felipe Ángeles and Pánfilo Natera. This 18th century chapel is named after the patron saint of miners. It’s believed that the image of the Virgin residing above the alter is capable of healing the sick.

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The Battle of Zacatecas

This statue of Pancho Villa commemorates The Battle of Zacatecas, June 1914, where Villa’s Division of the North brought President Huerta’s federal troops, 12,000 strong, to its knees and Villa took over the City. It’s one of the bloodiest battles of the Mexican Revolution where survivors claim that the hills flowed with blood and the streets were littered with corpses.

This statue sits upon the most prominent landmark in Zacatecas, La Bufa, which can be reached by cable car or a good hike. As a mining town rich in silver deposits, Zacatecas was a desirable city and prime target during the war.

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Our last day consisted mostly of bus rides:

  • 9:00 AM: Hotel to Zacatecas bus station.
  • 10:00 AM: Zacatecas bus station to Jerez bus station.
  • 11:00 AM: Jerez bus station to Jerez Centro Historico
  • 2:30 PM: Jerez Centro to Jerez bus station
  • 3:00 PM: Jerez bus station to Zacatecas bus station
  • 5:00 PM: Zacatecas bus station to Aguascalientes. Hour late – Marly and I sat in the cold wind outside waiting.  Toilet full of unmentionables and definitely unusable. We were unimpressed with Omnibus.
  • 7:30 PM: Bus pulls out of Aguascalientes, destination: Leon.
  • 10:00 PM: We arrive in Leon
  • 10:50 PM: Leon to Guanajuato
  • 11:30 PM: Not enough taxis in Guanajuato, so we take the bus to the Mercado and taxi home from there.

We arrived home close to midnight, thankful to be done with traveling!

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You know what? I had never had elote before last night. Here, you can get corn on the cob, patted down with lime, lathered in cream, rolled in cheese, and then sprinkled with chili and lightly salted for $13 pesos or $1.07. It’s delicious! Marly told me there are places in L.A. which sell these for $6! Here’s Marly with her’s.


This morning, we’re headed for Zacatecas. I’ve been wanting to go to this beautiful, colonial town for awhile. Now that I’ve got the perfect traveling companion, it will make this trip all the more special and adventuresome. On our way back, Thursday, we hope to check out the Magical Pueblo of Jerez.

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Calle Positos runs from the front of the University of Guanajuato to the Alhóndiga. According to Guanajuatocapital.com,  the street may owe its name from the corn stores that were located here at one time. You’ll find every architectural style popular since Guanajuato’s founding on Positos as well as the Diego Rivera House Museum.

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Ten Gallon Salut

Marly and I went on a five hour hike yesterday. We explored the Bufa and then had ice cream in Embajadoras.  Next, we went into town looking for weddings and Quinceañera celebrations. No luck.  So we went back home, watched The Bachelor (lame), and took care of Marly’s sunburn. Around 11pm, Fernando gave Marly a dance lesson and the three of us headed into town for a night of Salsa.

Best scene of the night: An old, drunk, grizzled cowboy—not unlike a Mexican Jeff Bridges—wearing a 10 gallon hat chatted up Marly and saluted her every two minutes. We eventually moved to the front room to get away from him since he was asking Marly to dance after every salute.  Harmless, but persistent.

Today, we’re off to see the mummies, maybe the mine, and museums. Marly is wearing sunscreen.

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Plastic Jesus

Yesterday afternoon, Marlena and I headed to the glorious ceramics place that is filled with junk and treasure. She picked up a plastic (crucified) Jesus—skinny and white—mounted on blue velvet with an ornate plastic gold frame.  I had been debating on getting this myself for a long time, but couldn’t decide if it was really, really bad or genius.

Here we walk with Farley in the alley just outside the ceramics place.

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